Castles
Altenburg Castle
Altenburg, Thuringia
- 1.5–3 hrs
Castles
Altenburg, Thuringia
Emperor Frederick Barbarossa stayed six times between 1165 and 1185 on a porphyry rock above the town of Altenburg, and in 1455 two Saxon princes were kidnapped from here. Today Altenburg Castle shows princely living quarters, a Baroque ballroom, a palace church with the organ that Johann Sebastian Bach played, and a museum that suits the town like no other: Altenburg is regarded as the home of the card game Skat, and the castle houses Europe's most comprehensive playing card museum of its kind.
The castle is first mentioned in 976 under Emperor Otto II. Under Barbarossa the imperial palace was expanded in the 12th century, and in 1180 he invested Otto of Wittelsbach with the Duchy of Bavaria here. The Wettins took over in 1307. In 1455 the knight Kunz von Kauffungen abducted the princes Ernst and Albrecht from the castle, an act that went down in history as the Altenburg Princes' Robbery. Between 1706 and 1744 Dukes Frederick II and Frederick III turned the castle into a Baroque palace. From 1826 to 1918 it was the residence of the House of Saxe-Altenburg, and since the end of 1918 it has been used by the town. Two major fires, in 1868 and 1987, destroyed parts of the complex.
By the early 1970s the organ was barely playable. Castle organist Felix Friedrich pushed for it to be restored to its 1739 state by 1976, and the GDR even released hard currency for the work. Bach is thought to have suggested the deep 32-foot reed stop, unusual in such a relatively small church. A painting in the castle recalls the investiture of Otto of Wittelsbach as Duke of Bavaria.
From Altenburg station it is about a 20-minute walk up through the castle park; alternatively, bus lines I, L, S and W run to the Theater stop, 4 minutes from the castle. By car, use the paid car parks on Heinrich-Gottfried-Trost-Weg (3 minutes to the castle) and at the Marstall on the castle hill. Visitors with limited mobility may briefly drive into the courtyard.
Allow two to three hours and plan around one of the guided tours at 11:00, 13:00 or 15:00, which take you into the ballroom, Bach Hall and palace church. Take your time in the playing card museum even if you do not play Skat: the collection spans several centuries and many countries. The walk up through the castle park from the station is the nicest way to arrive.
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