St Stephen's Church, Mainz

When the sun shines through the east choir, it bathes St Stephen's in deep blue: the stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall make the church on Stephansberg hill one of the most unusual church interiors in Germany. Chagall, a Jewish painter of biblical themes, wanted them to be seen as a sign of Jewish-German reconciliation. Add a quiet late Gothic cloister and a tower where a watchman once kept an eye on the city.

History: a place of prayer for the Empire

Archbishop Willigis founded the church in 990 on the highest point of the city, probably on behalf of the dowager empress Theophanu. He was buried here in 1011. A stone church replaced the wooden one from 1043, and the present building was built around 1267–1340. It is the oldest Gothic hall church on the Middle Rhine and, after the cathedral, the city's most important church. The cloister was added in 1462–1499.

In 1857 the explosion of a nearby powder tower destroyed the Baroque furnishings. In the great air raid of 27 February 1945 the tower burned and all the bells melted. The vaults were never rebuilt; a flat wooden ceiling now covers the nave.

What to see

• Chagall windows: Persuaded by parish priest Klaus Mayer, Chagall created nine windows from 1978 until his death in 1985, biblical scenes on glowing blue backgrounds, including Adam and Eve in Paradise. He painted the details onto the glass himself; they were his last church windows.
• Windows by Charles Marq: After Chagall's death Charles Marq, who had worked with him for 28 years, continued work on the remaining windows.
• Cloister: Late Gothic tracery, carved keystones and a fountain in a green courtyard.
• Tower: Guided tours can include the bell chamber and the former watchman's flat, with a Renaissance bell from 1617.

Good to know

The three new bells of 2008 first rang together on 27 February 2009, the anniversary of the city's destruction. In 1813–1814 the tower served as a station on the optical telegraph line to Metz.

Opening hours (as of October 2026)

March to October: Monday to Saturday 10:00–18:00, Sunday 12:00–18:00. November to February: Monday to Saturday 10:00–16:30, Sunday 12:00–16:30. Visits may be restricted during services and concerts. The parish offers one-hour tours of the Chagall windows, optionally with cloister and tower, bookable by email; groups arrange their own date via the parish office.

Getting there

The church stands on Willigisplatz on Stephansberg, south-west of the old town: about ten minutes on foot from the cathedral, the last stretch uphill, and around 20 minutes from the main station.

Tripto tip

Allow 30 to 45 minutes, a good hour with a tour. Come on a sunny morning, when the east windows glow most intensely. In Advent, combine your visit with the Christmas market around the cathedral.