Chapel of Grace, Altötting

The Chapel of Grace on Kapellplatz in Altötting is regarded as Bavaria's national shrine and is one of the most visited pilgrimage sites in Germany. Inside stands the Black Madonna, a small carved figure of Mary, and in wall niches around it the silver heart urns of Bavarian electors and kings. Even if you are not a pilgrim, the dark, candle-lit room and the arcade covered in votive pictures leave a strong impression.

History: an early medieval octagon

As early as 748 Altötting was a residence of the Agilolfing dukes, later a Carolingian royal palace. The octagonal core of the chapel probably dates from the 8th to 10th century, though the date is disputed. When the Hungarians ravaged the place in 907, only this octagon survived. A nave and spire were added in 1494, the open arcade in 1517 and the sacristy in 1686.

Altötting became famous through an event in 1489: a three-year-old boy fell into the Mörnbach stream and was thought drowned. His mother laid him on the chapel altar and prayed with others until the child started breathing again. A pilgrimage followed, strongly promoted by the Wittelsbach rulers during the Counter-Reformation.

The Black Madonna

The figure is 64 cm tall, carved from lime wood, and came to Altötting in the 14th century. Its origin is unknown; Burgundy or the Upper Rhine are suggested. Since 1518 it has been dressed in robes, originally made from the wedding dresses of Bavarian princesses. Elector Maximilian I donated the sceptre and crown. Pope Benedict XVI laid his bishop's ring before the statue on 11 September 2006; it is now fixed to the sceptre. Every Good Friday at 7:00 the Madonna is covered with a black veil.

What to see

• Altar of grace: entirely of chased silver, from 1670.
• Silver Prince: a kneeling silver figure of the ten-year-old Electoral Prince Max III Joseph, donated in 1737.
• Heart urns: 28 hearts were buried here over more than 300 years. Visible in niches are the urns of Emperor Charles VII, King Ludwig I and King Ludwig II, among others. General Tilly's heart is also kept here, but out of sight.
• Arcade: more than 2,000 votive pictures tell of accidents, illnesses and rescues. Some pilgrims circle the chapel carrying wooden crosses, a few on their knees.

Around Kapellplatz

The chapel stands free on the square, surrounded by the collegiate church, the Jesuit church, the town hall and canons' houses, a protected ensemble. Pope John Paul II celebrated Mass here in 1980 before 60,000 people. The Treasury holds the Goldenes Rössl, a small Marian altar of gold enamel made in Paris in 1404 as a New Year's gift for King Charles VI. The Jerusalem Panorama by Gebhard Fugel is a circular painting 12 m high and 95 m around, open daily 10:00–17:00, admission €5.

Tripto tips

Allow 1 to 2 hours, or half a day with the Treasury and the panorama. The chapel is a place of prayer: during services it is crowded, so just walk the arcade then. Early mornings and weekdays are quieter. Around major pilgrimages and Marian feast days, large groups arrive.